Physical Oceanography of Coastal and Shelf SeasB. Johns Elsevier, 1. sij 1983. - Broj stranica: 469 This book provides a thorough treatment of both theoretical and observational aspects of the interaction between the sea-floor and the near-sea-floor dynamics; the effect this has on the distribution of internal and seabed stress; and the relevance of the associated dynamics to sedimentation processes. The theoretical work described involved both analytical and numerical modelling studies of a wide range of near-shore and shelf processes. These provide a valuable store of information on the interaction between the sea-floor and the dynamics of the overlying water. The book also includes an account of tidal analysis techniques and how these are being applied in the analysis of tidal current measurements. The observational studies relate to measurements of near-sea-floor turbulence and sand-transport in the littoral zone. |
Sadržaj
| 1 | |
CHAPTER 2 NEARSHORE CURRENTS AND SAND TRANSPORT ON BEACHES | 67 |
CHAPTER 3 TURBULENCE MODELLING BENEATH WAVES OVER BEACHES | 111 |
CHAPTER 4 OBSERVATIONS OF TIDES OVER THE CONTINENTAL SHELF OF NORTHWEST EUROPE | 135 |
CHAPTER 5 THE BOTTOM BOUNDARY LAYER OF SHELF SEAS | 189 |
CHAPTER 6 A NUMERICAL MODEL OF SHALLOWWATER FLOW OVER TOPOGRAPHY | 267 |
CHAPTER 7 TIDALLY INDUCED RESIDUAL FLOWS | 321 |
CHAPTER 8 COMPARISON OF COMPUTED AND OBSERVED RESIDUAL CURRENTS DURING JONSDAP 76 | 357 |
CHAPTER 9 DEVELOPMENT OF A THREELAYERED SPECTRAL MODEL FOR THE MOTION OF A STRATIFIED SEA 1 BASIC EQUATIONS | 387 |
CHAPTER 10 DEVELOPMENT OF A THREELAYERED SPECTRAL MODEL FOR THE MOTION OF A STRATIFIED SEA II EXPERIMENTS ... | 401 |
| 467 | |
Uobičajeni izrazi i fraze
advection amphidrome amplitude analysis anticlockwise barotropic basin beach bed shear stress bottom friction bottom stress boundary conditions boundary layer breaker calculated Celtic Sea clockwise cm sº Coastal Eng component computations on grid constant constituents continental shelf crest depth depth-averaged dissipation distribution drag coefficient eddy viscosity effect elevation equations evaluated field fluid free-stream frequency Geophys gradient harmonic height horizontal inertial currents Irish Sea Jonsson Kelvin waves laboratory linear littoral drift logarithmic longshore current Longuet-Higgins magnitude maximum measurements non-linear North Sea Norwegian Trench numerical model observations obtained oscillations parameters phase predicted Proc radiation region residual flow residual vorticity Reynolds stress rippled bed roughness sand transport seabed sediment motion sediment transport semidiurnal shear stress shelf seas shown in Fig sinusoidal ſº solution surf zone surface waves thickness tidal currents tide topography tracer turbulence energy variations velocity profile waterdepth wavenumber