so it happened, and the jolly spirit was quenched forever.

It seemed as though the fates were against us, and weeks of fruitless watching passed before the Spectator opened his door one day

to find the whole family smiling about a big, complacent black man and a small, imperturbable white dog. This was Waggles. He fell sick and we nearly lost him, but we called in a doctor and now he is well, and some day shall have an essay all to himself.

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July 14, 1898.

S we marched out of the Presidio grounds the companies we left lined up and gave three cheers for each troop as it passed. To a man I believe they wished themselves in our places. Along the line of march the people gathered and cheered and waved flags and cried. There was not the demonstration that was shown when the California volunteers left, but then they were 'Frisco's own boys, and we were regulars. The fellows looked very businesslike. No flowers or decorations of any kind were allowed, and we marched in columnof-four and platoon formation, and rather smartly, we fancied. At the Pacific Mail dock we found Mr. and Mrs. F to wish us good-by. We were on board and had our lunch by one o'clock. There was a mixture of emotions as we were introduced to our bunks. It was not as bad below decks as it might have been; in fact, it was pretty good, although rather crowded. The bunks are three deep, and measure five feet nine inches by twenty-three inches, and there is a twentythree-inch air-space over each bunk. There is an aisle between every two rows, so that every man can get in directly, without climbing over his neighbor. Most of the passageways are about two feet wide. We of E have the widest, being right in the middle of the ship, forward. The bunks themselves are comfortable, being fitted with woven-wire springs and straw-filled pillow and mattress. K— and I got two top-story bunks next each other and quite near an incandescent light, so that we can read and write-when the light is on. The civilians were ordered ashore at about three-thirty. The wharf was crowded with the friends of the men. Sweethearts, permanent and temporary, waved handkerchiefs and threw kisses and pushed and squeezed about in the excited crowd.

The boat pulled out from the wharf at about four. The men crowded on decks and rigging cheered the people crowding the dock, and the cheer was returned and exchanged back and forth until the Peru had swung out into the stream. About three hundred yards from the dock we came to anchor by our consort, the City of Puebla, and here we wait until to-morrow noon.

July 15.

The day is beautiful. All the morning tugs and rowboats and launches have been steaming around the two transports. The small boats are crowded with Red Cross ladies and friends of the soldiers, who bring fruit and flowers and pelt the men on the decks with oranges. The attention is uproariously appreciated, and Indian yells and cat-calls and all manner of cheers are given for the ladies of the Red Cross." The Fifty-first Iowa band came out in one of the boats, and aroused great enthusiasm. The "Examiner" sent out a lot of free papers that brought the news of Santiago's surrender. There was hardly time to read the news, as the crowd kept pushing from side to side of the boat, struggling for a sight of the visiting boats or a stray orange. At one minute of four the anchor was raised, the whistles blew, and the bombs were discharged, and we were made to feel that, for the time being, we, the Fourth Expedition, were the center of interest. As we moved on through the Golden Gate the noise of the city died away and the ocean swell grew noticeable. Half an hour more and the mirth and joy of life were gone for most of us, and few were the brethren that gathered at 5:30 for salt pork and coffee.

July 16.

The ship's company woke up feeling much better. The large majority of the men felt hungry, and though they were a trifle "shaky

on their pins," still they were so much better than last night that they looked with scorn on the weak ones who kept their berths. From all accounts this morning no one had been seasick. At least I have rot found a man yet (with two exceptions, Jim, my next door neighbor, and myself) who will not stoutly affirm that he was not sick. And so I am forced to conclude that the long, sad line along the ship's side last evening, and the unhappy sounds that punctuated the night watches below, were all a bad dream. Breakfast was very much helped by some "malted milk" which was served out to the weakkneed brethren by the doctor's orders. It was very refreshing, and strengthened us to tackle the bacon and sugarless coffee. The boat is running easily, rolling and pitchingnot badly. The City of Puebla, our "concert," as they say, has been in sight all day. Orce we stopped for a few minutes and our sister transport forged ahead, only to drop respectfully in the rear when our engines started again. Towards six o'clock she was so near that we could hear the cheers of the men aboard her. The sea has treated our "non-coms" (non-commissioned officers) unkindly. I asked our quartermaster sergeant, in all innocence of heart, if he had had his supper yet. "No, and I never want it," with a sigh. "Long Bill," my erstwhile tent-mate, has found a sure cure for seasickness. says: "Just lie in your bunk and never go on deck and you'll be all right." We have passed one ship, a three-masted bark, with all sails set; she was making for 'Frisco. There was loud cheering from the Peru when she dipped her "Stars and Stripes." The gaming spirit has come back with the return of appetite, and at least two games have been running pretty steadily below decks. The remnants of pay that escaped the 'Frisco dives are changing hands, and will to a large extent find their way into a comparatively few pockets. It is well for the Regular that pay. day comes but once a month. We were paid last Thursday, and before night fully ten per cent. of the troops "went broke," and before we went on board ship on Thursday I think I am safe in saying that the majority of the men were penniless. The men, being sure of their "keep" for the next month, feel that they can throw away their money as they like.

He

Sunday, July 17.

The food question is much discussed by the men, and there is dissatisfaction with the

fare. The report is that the food is supplied by contract, and that some shrewd contractor is making a big "rake-off." As far as I can see, there are two causes for the dissatisfaction: one, the condition of the men-just recovering from seasickness; and the other, the poor way in which the food is prepared and served, and the wretched quality of the coffee. All the enlisted men on board-some nine hundred-are fed from a galley perhaps six by sixteen feet. In this little cage three very dirty colored cooks labor day and night, with the result that everybody gets something, if he wishes it, three times a day. The food is all served from the galley, and it takes over two hours for all the men to file past and get their "chuck." Men are detailed to help in serving and washing up. Our menu to-day has been coffee and hardtack at all three meals, boiled corned beef and potatoes for breakfast and dinner, and beef stew, commonly known as "slum," for supper. The food all tastes of the galley, and unless a man has a tremendous appetite or else eats as a religious duty, he is apt to go unfed. But I forget the illicit trade with the Steward & Co. After every officers' mess there is a jam of "pie-eaters" around the doors of the saloon ard the main galley. Everybody, apparently, from the head steward to the Chinese cook, is willing at the right moment to hand out a bowl full of scraps or a piece of plum pudding or a hunk of bread and butter in return for a piece of silver. I don't know how far this trade is winked at by the officers, but it seems to me altogether bad, as it results in the men's being made still more dissatisfied with their regular fare. We have a delightful bustling little doctor whose fund of enthusiasm and talk and none but impracticable ideas is never failing. When he discovers something to do, he cackles and crows over it like a hen rejoicing at a new egg. To-day his eyes lighted on a bale of very sorry-looking cabbages that had lain by our bunks since we started and had grown unpleasant to smell. He ordered them thrown overboard at once, but on second thought asked to what troop they belonged, and had word sent to the commander that he must eat or destroy said cabbages before sundown. It ended by the crates being broken open and the cabbages eagerly eaten by the men. Another idea that filled the young doctor's head was of having the men eat below decks in the one aisle that was more than two feet wide. Upon this point he

The only special reminders we have had of the day have been the shaving operations that have gone forward on deck, the numerous and prolonged gambling games, and the music from the officers' saloon. To the piano accompaniment several lusty official throats have rendered "Life on the Ocean Wave," "Ta-ra-ra-boom-de-ay," etc. I am "supernumerary" at guard-mount, which means that I am liable for guard duty if any of the men are taken sick; and to-morrow I go on guard regularly. At supper I was near our genial and profane saddier, Jones He preHe presented me a slice of cheese and half a raw onion which he had procured in some dark and devious way.

July 18.

This has been a day of surprises. The first thing was the announcement that every organization on board would have a halfhour's drill. Two troops at a time, we came on deck for "set-up" drill. The exercise did the men good, and, I think, will do much to keep them fit. Then the water question has been fairly met, and, after due deliberation, we have been allowed to take the water and cool it in our canteens and keep it for drinking. Heretofore there has been a guard stationed over the one fresh-water hydrant we had access to, and the instructions have been that no water could be taken from the premises. All day, and well into the evening, a line of thirsty men has been crowding before the water-tank. But the unpleasant thing is that the water is blood-hot as it comes from the tank; in fact, it is just too warm for a man with an unsteady stomach to partake of. Now a man can fill his canteen, cool the water, and drink it at his leisure. For this change we have our doctor to thank. other innovation is the bathing apparatus rigged up on deck. Six-foot-square canvas tanks have been suspended from the stanchions above the promenade-deck, and filled with sea-water Here, in the warm afternoon, the "regular" ducks and splashes to heart's desire.

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On the main deck there are four shower-baths-two forward and two aftwhich, with the "sea-water-tin-basin outfit," completes our washing appliances. There is surely no excuse for the unwashed.

I went on guard at three in the afternoon.

Every man has four turns on guard in the twenty-four hours-two hours on and four hours off. The guard is divided into three "reliefs," and each man on guard is known by the number of his "relief." I was No. 1, second "relief." No. I has charge of the guard-house, so yesterday I was burdened by guarding two prisoners who were kept in strict confinement, being obliged to show up at least once a day, and oftener if desired. The theory of the sergeant of the guard was that they couldn't get away, even if they wanted to. Six temporary bunks have been put in on either side of the hallway, and the four men whom these bunks do not accommodate sleep on the floor. I found my main business was saluting officers going and coming from mess, and, in the early morning, going and coming from the bath in pajamas and slippers.

July 19.

This afternoon the City of Puebla sailed very close to us, and rumor said that there had been trouble on board; the men, being much dissatisfied with the food, had threatened the officers, and several of the ringleaders had been lodged in irons. It is merely a rumor, and we shall not know its foundation till we reach the islands. It came home vividly to our men, as there has been a great deal of talk about the food here. To the popular mind color was lent to the rumor by the fact that after a breakfast of salt pork and a dinner of "salt horse " (canned corned beef) we had good "slum" and tea for supper. The men were much pleased, and the wise heads said the officers had taken warning by the Puebla's experience.

July 20.

The day after the "old guard" go off duty they are put on "fatigue," so "old guard fatigue" was the order of the day for me. The work was cleaning the wash sinks and polishing the tin wash-basins and scrubbing out the "guard-house." One felt himself a wheel in the machine that cleans this ship daily and makes it habitable.

This morning some commissary supplies were opened up on the forward deck and sold to the men. There was a great rush to get some of the delicacies the men have been

pining for. Canned fruit, jelly, condensed milk, lime-juice, cigars, cranberry sauce, were the principal commodities dealt in. Quite as many went away unable to purchase as got the chance to "blow themselves." K- — and I got two cans of peaches; one we will have for supper and the other will be kept for to-morrow.

July 21.

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You have received the last photographs from me, I fear, as I find to-day that some brother has appropriated my camera. shall make what effort I can to recover it, but I am not hopeful of success. I can only wish that the lens will crack the first time he uses it. I discovered my loss when I was looking for the kodak to snap a view of one of our afternoon deck swimming parties. It would have amused you. We are required to take one official bath per diem either in the deck tanks or a "shower," Last night we slept on deck. It was cool, hard, and refreshing. The China boys drove us below when they came at five to wash down the deck. The wind has freshened yesterday and to-day, and the ship has a steady long roll. In spite of the wind, the weather is increasingly warm. We have had light underwear served out to us, also flannel abdominal belts constructed and presented to the men by the California Red Cross Society. The food has changed decidedly for the better. The tea for supper continues, and we have had soup for dinner twice. The complaints are fewer in consequence. It is reported that we will probably meet the mail boat Mariposa to-morrow. I have written a letter, as there is a chance for sending mail. doubt, however, if it reaches you before this diary, sent from Honolulu,

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July 23. The day began early for K- and me. When we were awakened at 4:30 by the genial China boy's foot to clear the deck for scrubbing, we found that there was an excited crowd on the forecastle head watching bright lights that showed off our starboard bow. Gradually the growing light showed the jagged outline of the island mountains capped by low-hanging clouds. There was no more sleep for us. We, the whole "outfit," men and officers, hung on the sight of land, and watched the lovely Pearl Harbor open and spread its arms around us. The pilot, rowed out by swarthy Kanakas, brought us through the narrow channel to the Pacific Mail dock. The native boys were swimming on both

sides of the boat as we steamed in, diving/ coins in the clear water. On the wharf a good-sized crowd of men and wor dressed in white. This crowd rapidly creased as the boom of the Mohican's guns told the city that the expedition had arrived. The fellows crowding the decks and rigging sent up an eager cheer, and shouts of "Where's the pie-wagon?" and "Give us some fruit!" were answered by the waving of American flags, large and small. The enthusiasm on both sides found expression when the Government band came down awheel and struck up "Hail Columbia," plus a medley of National airs. A good many of the ship's company who had conversed only in monosyllables for the last eight days found a lump rising in their throats. The generous crowd on shore began pelting the ship with bananas and pineapples. The men were more than hungry for the fruit, and showed more greed than manners in their wish for the "free lunch." Breakfast was neglected, the sight of people, men, women, and children, walking and talking on steady ground being altogether too diverting. To my great surprise, I was called to the ship's side to see a lady and gentleman who were asking for me. Mr. and Mrs. P— introduced themselves, saying that they wanted to welcome me to their home just as soon as I could get "shore leave." It was delightful, this personal welcome to Hawaii. At about ten o'clock half the men (including Troop E) were marched off for a sea bath. The white macadam roads and the tall and short palms and the Kanaka ladies and gentlemen rocked and swayed a good deal to our eyes, but, notwithstanding this, we managed our half-mile walk to a club boat house. It took about three minutes for the crowd to strip and find itself in the delicious cool water. We were marched back to the ship by a longer circuit, taking in a view of the Government buildings and Nunanu Avenue. After dinner the study was how to get ashore. Many of the soldiers managed it, going and returning via bow and stern ropes; of these a number were caught and court-martialed, or put on fatigue work "till further orders." No shore passes have been issued to-day.

Sunday, July 24.

Yesterday invitations were distributed to the services of the Central Union Church and to the Y. M. C. A. Building. The people have been very kind and generous thus far in their hospitality, though there has not

in

en

been a great demonstration of enthusiasm. I suppose they are waiting for the "flagraising."

Our bath came at two o'clock, and yesterday's enjoyment was repeated. A fellow from the Puebla was around to-day and told us of their troubles on the voyage. It seems that the excitement did reach its climax the day the ship sailed so near to us, though the rumors we got were very much exaggerated. The men were pretty sore on the food question when the officers tried two meals per day instead of three. There was a great and general "kick," which had this much of success, that it brought back the three meals and somewhat improved food. The fellows say they didn't get enough to eat. They report one man fined ten dollars and put in guard for thirty days for stealing a loaf of bread. Of course this greatly excites the popular wrath. I was off for a walk in the town in the afternoon, and again with K———— in the evening. Shore leave has been granted to about half of the men from two to eight. K- got a special pass till twelve. We had our supper at a "two-bit" Chinese restaurant. It was bully! The profit the house made on the meal was small. We stopped in at the Young Men's Christian Association,

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where the tables were crowded with soldiers writing letters. The Association is doing much for the men in giving them this opportunity to write home. Opposite the Young Men's Christian Association is the public library and reading-room. I found a file of the Springfield weekly "Republican" with full accounts of the Amherst Commencement. It was a treat, as you can think. The town itself is charming. The effect is altogether tropical, and the Japs and Chinese and Kanakas harmonize with the landscape. The houses are for the most part low and surrounded by charming gardens. In the poorer sections the second story projects over the sidewalk, and the light-hearted people hang over the railing and stare down into the street. The narrow-gauge tram-cars are pulled by horses or mules, and move along at a rate slow enough to allow the passengers to greet their friends through the open sides as the car jogs along. The American flag is everywhere. I could count on my fingers the Hawaiian flags I have seen. The stores, except the Chinese, are thoroughly American, the windows are full of American goods, and the boards and fences are covered with American advertisements.

Camp near Santiago, June 25, 1898. E were under fire yesterday for the first time; the fight lasted about two hours. I came out unhurt, but about fifty of our boys were killed and wounded and several of them missing, probably captured.

The Rough Riders got aboard the transports about June 7, and from the very first we had a tough time of it. The grub was horrible; we had no freshly cooked food for fourteen days. "Salt horse," hardtack, oneeighth can of tomatoes, and watery coffee constituted a ration. The lack of variety at first made the food disagreeable, then nauseating. I paid forty cents for a pie before leaving Tampa (we lay there in the transport five or six days).

At first openly, then on the sly, the ship cooks sold meat sandwiches for twenty-five cents; they did an enormous business, clearing, I hear, eleven hundred dollars. When

HUNTINGTON.

the money gave out, a crowd of the fellows would line up before the grimy stokers' and deck-hands' table, and when they had finished make a dive for what was left.

We were six or seven days on the voyage, and off Santiago a day or two, landing after a heavy bombardment of the coast by several of our men-of-war. Innutritious food combined with seasickness and lack of exercise had had its effect upon the men. Many were sick, most were feeling wretched, and all were weak. Few men in my troop were fitted for active work. We slept that night at Baiquiri on our rolls. Next day a forced march of twelve miles brought us to a village on the coast, the name of which nobody seems to know. The cause of this sudden move was soon known. There were extensive rumors that a body of Spaniards were a few miles over the hill, waiting to welcome us. The men knew what was coming. The rainy night kept a good many from sleeping; as for myself, it