the stream has nearly ceased to run, or at dead slack, for by being hooked through the nape of the neck, it preserves a more natural position in the water, which would not be so if hooked as in the tide-way. On the other hand, it would be an error to use the slack tide method in the tide-way, because the force of the stream would cause the bait to fall on its side and thus take an unnatural position.

The third illustration (fig. 18) shows the ordinary method of baiting at slack tide, but I prefer that recommended by the late P. le Noury as more calculated to maintain the Sand-Eel in a natural position. Whilst baiting your hook according to either of the methods, be careful not to squeeze the Sand-Eel, for its attractiveness depends on its liveliness remaining unimpaired; therefore when it becomes feeble put on a fresh one. The living Sand-Eel is such a killing bait that few who have used

FIG. 18.-Living Sand-Eel bait; ordinary method at slack tide.

it will care to procure any other when provided with it, as it is greedily devoured by sea-fish in general, as well as by Pollack.

The Sand-Eel or Launce is very numerous on many of our own and foreign shores, and particularly at the mouth of those harbours where the sand is of a loose and gravelly nature. They should not be scraped out of the sand, as is the common custom, but be taken in a small seine or net, the bag part or bunt of which must be of very fine netting or of unbleached calico, in order that it may not mesh them (see 'Sand-Eel Seine,' fig. 70, p. 229). After being taken in this they are

poured into the baskets about to be described.

There are many localities where Sand-Eels abound, and yet no net is kept for their capture. In such places they can manifestly be alone taken by scraping or digging them from the sand; in which case provide a small light bucket or bailer to contain salt-water, and throw the Sand-Eels into it instantly on

F

capture. When you have a score or so, pour them into your Sand-Eel basket or courge, which should be placed ready in a pool you have dug for it in the sand close at hand.

The Courge or Sand-Eel Basket (fig. 19).-These curiouslyshaped baskets are made of fine willow or osier twigs, not

more than about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and are woven sufficiently close to prevent the escape of the Sand-Eels, whilst in the centre an opening is left for their introduction, which is closed by a piece of flat cork accurately fitted to the aperture.

A piece of small rope having an eye in it is passed over one end and firmly lashed at the other, by which it is towed astern of the boat (fig. 20), the rope having first been made fast through a hole in a small cleet, nailed to the stern of the boat, just above the surface of the water, as shown above.

Of these baskets the most useful size is 2 feet in length, and 7 inches in diameter, and certainly nothing can be better adapted for the end intended, as it is very light, and the water flows easily through it, whilst from its shape it offers less resistance in passing through the water than any other which could be devised. It will be found equally useful as a live-bait cage for Shrimps, Prawns, other crustacea, and small fish in general; it might also be adopted for the same purpose for livebait in Jack or Perch-fishing on a river or lake. In France these contrivances are made of wood; I have tried them, but the Sand-Eels do not live nearly as long as in the wicker 'Courge.'

How to make Courges or Sand-Eel Baskets.- Procure some very fine small osiers or withies, and soak them a day or two until they are sufficiently supple for weaving, also some others for the framework inch in thickness, and 2 feet in length, Get two hoops of any light and flexible wood of 7 inches diameter, and lash with wax-ends or sail-twine seven of the rods to the outside of one of the hoops, at equal intervals of its circumference, and at 3 inches on one side of the middle of the rods; now insert the second hoop at the distance of 6 inches from the first, and secure it as before. The ends must then be brought together, and, being lashed, will form the figure of two cones joined at the base. Commence weaving at one of the ends, opening the rods by aid of a small marlinespike or pricker, and having done about 4 inches, proceed in like manner with the other end, when the increasing width between the rods will necessitate the insertion of other rods, which are to be secured as at first directed. Continue weaving from either side until within 3 inches of the middle of the rods, leaving here an unwoven space about 6 inches in length and 4 in breadth to pour the Sand-Eels into the basket. This aperture must be closed by an accurately fitting piece of cork when in use. A rod or two will cross the hole, which must be cut off to admit the cork, and the two rods forming the edges of the hole longitudinally must have the osiers doubled round them and the ends of these osiers tucked in.

The cork should be a good thick piece of an inch larger than the hole, and by taking off half its thickness to this width,

it will fit well over the edges of the aperture. If a thick piece is not to be had, peg two pieces together. The cork should be attached to the basket by a piece of line, that you may be able to drop it when taking out the bait, and a bit of stick § of an inch thick being thrust through under one of the rods on one side of the cork, a piece of line 18 inches long should be made fast to the rod of the basket nearest the cork on the other side; this being belayed on the short bit of stick serving as a cleet will ensure the cork keeping in its place. Reservoir courges are sometimes 3 feet long; these are not towed but kept on a mooring.

How to Bait with Rag-Worms.-The Mud, Rag, or Rockworm is the next bait, and very valuable, as it can be kept a considerable time with proper care, and is found in the soft mud of harbours, also in sandy gravel and clay formed by the

FIG. 21.

decomposition of granite. (See the article, p. 188.) Hook them merely through the head, if small three, if fair sized two,

FIG. 22.

at a time, allowing them to hang down their whole length, as fig. 21. A second illustration (fig. 31, p. 85) shows a plan for whiffing hereafter described. These worms should be carried to sea in a wooden box 10 inches by 5 and 2 deep, the joints pitched, and water an inch deep should be kept in it. Put

it out of the sun if possible and on a slant, as the worms like to crawl out of the water for a change.

How to Bait with living Shrimps.-The Shrimps or Prawns are to be kept afloat in a box with holes, or, better still, in a Sand-Eel basket. The hook should be baited, as shown fig. 22, by passing the hook up through the tail. Dead baits are not of much account generally in drift-line fishing their description under 'Whiffing' will suffice.

HORSE-HAIR LINES, AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.

These lines with pipe-leads at intervals of 12 feet are the best that can be used for Pollack-fishing, Mackerel, Bass, or Bream, when moored, and may also be used when whiffing under oars, but not under sail, as, being valuable lines, the risk of hooking the bottom and consequent breakage is too great. They are more used in the Channel Islands than any other locality I have visited, but I have met with them at Portsmouth, they are well known at Weymouth, and a variety with the lead at the end is used at Plymouth, and another with hemp at the upper end in the Isle of Man; there are, however, very large districts where they are quite unknown or unused, and here they might be introduced with great advantage. The following is the method of manufacture.

You must provide yourself with a small jack or twistingengine, also two circular pieces of lead, one of 1 lb. weight for hair, and another of lb. weight for gut, each with a wire hook in the centre. (See fig. 23, p. 70.)

Procure a good long tail (of a horse, not of a mare for obvious reasons), wash and dry it in the open air, and cut a few inches off the end, as it is usually rotten from dirt, &c.; then tie the hair round with twine at the root, in the middle, and at 8 inches from the tail end, place it on a table before you with a heavy book on it or a piece of board, the tail end towards you, and drawing out the longest hairs as they present themselves to the number of twelve or fourteen, according to the thickness of the hair, whether it be coarse or fine, attach three twelves or three fourteens, as the case may be, to the