The only special reminders we have had of the day have been the shaving operations that have gone forward on deck, the numerous and prolonged gambling games, and the music from the officers saloon. To the piano accompaniment s veral lusty official throats have rendered "Life on the Ocean Wave," “Ta-ra-ra-boom-de-ay," etc. I am "super numerary" at guard-mount, which means that I am liable for guard duty if any of the men are taken sick; and to-morrow I go on guard regularly. At supper I was near our genial and profane saddier, Jones He presented me a sl.ce of cheese and half a raw onion which he had procured in some dark and devious way.

July 18.

This has been a day of surprises. The first thing was the announcement that every organization on board would have a halfhour's drill. Two troops at a time, we came on deck for "set-up ❞ drill. The exercise did the men good, and, I think, will do much to keep them fit. Then the water question has been fairly met, and, after due deliberation, we have been allowed to take the water and cool it in our canteens and keep it for drinking. Heretofore there has been a guard stationed over the one fresh-water hydrant we had access to, and the instructions have been that no water could be taken from the premises. All day, and well into the evening, a line of thirsty men has been crowding before the water-tank. But the unpleasant thing is that the water is blood-hot as it comes from the tank; in fact, it is just too warm for a man with an unsteady stomach to partake of. Now a man can fill his canteen, cool the water, and drink it at his leisure. For this change we have our doctor to thank. Another innovation is the bathing apparatus rigged up on deck. Six-foot-square canvas tanks have been suspended from the stanchions above the promenade-deck, and filled with sea-water Here, in the warm afternoon, the “regular” ducks and splashes to heart's desire. On the main deck there are four shower-baths-two forward and two aftwhich, with the "sea-water-tin-basin outfit," completes our washing appliances. There is surely no excuse for the unwashed.

I went on guard at three in the afternoon.

on the starboard promenade-deck. There are eight posts on the boat, and the sentinel's duties are principa ly to keep passageways open, and to prevent wasting of water, and smoking below decks.

Every man has four turns on guard in the twenty-four hours-two hours on and four hours off. The guard is divided into three "reliefs," and each man on guard is known by the number of his "relief." I was No. 1. second relief." No. 1 has charge of the guard-house, so yesterday I was burdened by guarding two prisoners who were kept in strict confinement, being obliged to show up at least once a day, and oftener if desired. The theory of the sergeant of the guard was that hey couldn't get away, even if they wanted to. Six temporary bunks have been put in on either side of the hallway, and the four men whom these bunks do not accommodate sleep on the floor. I found my main business was saluting officers going and coming from mess, and, in the early morning, going and coming from the bath in pajamas and slippers.

July 19.

This afternoon the City of Puebla sailed very close to us, and rumor said that there had been trouble on board; the men, being much dissatisfied with the food, had threatened the officers, and several of the ringleaders had been lodged in irons. It is merely a rumor, and we shall not know its foundation till we reach the islands. It came home vividly to our men, as there has been a great deal of talk about the food here. To the popular mind color was lent to the rumor by the fact that after a breakfast of salt pork and a dinner of "salt horse " (canned corned beef) we had good "slum" and tea for s pper. The men were much pleased, and the wise heads said the officers had taken warning by the Puebla's experience.

July 20.

The day after the "old guard" go off duty they are put on "fatigue," so "old guard fatigue' was the order of the day for me. The work was cleaning the wash sinks and polishing the tin wash-basins and scrubbing out the "guard-house." One felt himself a wheel in the machine that cleans this ship daily and makes it habitable.

This morning some commissary supplies were opened up on the forward deck and sold to the men. There was a great rush to get some of the delicacies the men have been

pining for. Canned fruit, jelly, condensed milk, lime-juice, cigars, cranberry sauce, were the principal commodities dealt in. Quite as many went away unable to purchase as got the chance to "blow themselves." Kand I got two cans of peaches; one we will have for supper and the other will be kept for to-morrow.

July 21.

You have received the last photographs from me, I fear, as I find to-day that some brother has appropriated my camera. I shall make what effort I can to recover it, but I am not hopeful of success. I can only wish that the lens will crack the first time he uses it. I discovered my loss when I was looking for the kodak to snap a view of one of our afternoon deck swimming parties. It would have amused you. We are required to take one official bath per diem either in the deck tanks or a "shower." Last night we slept on deck. It was cool, hard, and refreshing. The China boys drove us below when they came at five to wash down the deck. The wind has freshened yesterday and to-day, and the ship has a steady long roll. In spite of the wind, the weather is increasingly warm. We have had light underwear served out to us, also flannel abdominal belts constructed and presented to the men by the California Red Cross Society. The food has changed decidedly for the better. The tea for supper continues, and we have had soup for dinner twice. The complaints are fewer in consequence. It is reported that we will probably meet the mail boat Mariposa to-morrow. I have written a letter, as there is a chance for sending mail. I doubt, however, if it reaches you before this diary, sent from Honolulu.

July 23. and me.

The day began early for KWhen we were awakened at 4:30 by the genial China boy's foot to clear the deck for scrubbing, we found that there was an excited crowd on the forecastle head watching bright lights that showed off our starboard bow. Gradually the growing light showed the jagged outline of the island mountains capped by low-hanging clouds. There was no more sleep for us. We, the whole "outfit," men and officers, hung on the sight of land, and watched the lovely Pearl Harbor open and spread its arms around us. The pilot, rowed out by swarthy Kanakas, brought us through the narrow channel to the Pacific Mail dock. The native boys were swimming on both

sides of the boat as we steamed in, diving for coins in the clear water. On the wharf was a good-sized crowd of men and women dressed in white. This crowd rapidly increased as the boom of the Mohican's guns told the city that the expedition had arrived. The fellows crowding the decks and rigging sent up an eager cheer, and shouts of "Where's the pie-wagon?" and Give us some fruit!" were answered by the waving of American flags, large and small. The enthusiasm on both sides found expression when the Government band came down awheel and struck up "Hail Columbia," plus a medley of National airs. A good many of the ship's company who had conversed only in monosyllables for the last eight days found a lump rising in their throats. The generous crowd on shore began pelting the ship with bananas and pineapples. The men were more than hungry for the fruit, and showed more greed than manners in their wish for the "free lunch." Breakfast was neglected, the sight of people, men, women, and children, walking and talking on steady ground being altogether too diverting. To my great surprise, I was called to the ship's side to see a lady and gentleman who were asking for me. Mr. and Mrs. P—— introduced themselves, saying that they wanted to welcome me to their home just as soon as I could get "shore leave." It was delightful, this personal welcome to Hawaii. At about ten o'clock half the men (including Troop E) were marched off for a sea bath. The white macadam roads and the tall and short palms and the Kanaka ladies and gentlemen rocked and swayed a good deal to our eyes, but, notwithstanding this, we managed our half-mile walk to a club boat-house. It took about three minutes for the crowd to strip and find itself in the delicious cool water. We were marched back to the ship by a longer circuit, taking in a view of the Government buildings and Nunanu Avenue. After dinner the study was how to get ashore. Many of the soldiers managed it, going and returning via bow and stern ropes; of these a number were caught and court-martialed, or put on fatigue work "till further orders." No shore passes have been issued to-day.

Sunday, July 24.

Yesterday invitations were distributed to the services of the Central Union Church and to the Y. M. C. A. Building. The people have been very kind and generous thus far in their hospitality, though there has not

been a great demonstration of enthusiasm. I suppose they are waiting for the "flagraising."

Our bath came at two o'clock, and yesterday's enjoyment was repeated. A fellow from the Puebla was around to-day and told us of their troubles on the voyage. It seems that the excitement did reach its climax the day the ship sailed so near to us, though the rumors we got were very much exaggerated. The men were pretty sore on the food question when the officers tried two meals per day instead of three. There was a great and general "kick," which had this much of success, that it brought back the three meals and somewhat improved food. The fellows say they didn't get enough to eat. They report one man fined ten dollars and put in guard for thirty days for stealing a loaf of bread. Of course this greatly excites the popular wrath. I was off for a walk in the town in the afternoon, and again with K——— in the evening. Shore leave has been granted to about half of the men from two to eight. K― got a special pass till twelve. We had our supper at a "two-bit" Chinese restaurant. It was bully! The profit the house made on the meal was small. We stopped in at the Young Men's Christian Association,

W

where the tables were crowded with soldiers writing letters. The Association is doing much for the men in giving them this opportunity to write home. Opposite the Young Men's Christian Association is the public library and reading-room. I found a file of the Springfield weekly "Republican" with full accounts of the Amherst Commencement. It was a treat, as you can think. The town itself is charming. The effect is altogether tropical, and the Japs and Chinese and Kanakas harmonize with the landscape. The houses are for the most part low and surrounded by charming gardens. In the poorer sections the second story projects over the sidewalk, and the light-hearted people hang over the railing and stare down into the street. The narrow-gauge tram-cars are pulled by horses or mules, and move along at a rate slow enough to allow the passengers to greet their friends through the open sides as the car jogs along. The American flag is everywhere. I could count on my fingers the Hawaiian flags I have seen. The stores, except the Chinese, are thoroughly American, the windows are full of American goods, and the boards and fences are covered with American advertisements.

Camp near Santiago, June 25, 1898. E were under fire yesterday for the first time; the fight lasted about two hours. I came out unhurt, but about fifty of our boys were killed and wounded and several of them missing, probably captured.

The Rough Riders got aboard the transports about June 7, and from the very first we had a tough time of it. The grub was horrible; we had no freshly cooked food for fourteen days. "Salt horse," hardtack, oneeighth can of tomatoes, and watery coffee constituted a ration. The lack of variety at first made the food disagreeable, then nauseating. I paid forty cents for a pie before leaving Tampa (we lay there in the transport five or six days).

At first openly, then on the sly, the ship cooks sold meat sandwiches for twenty-five cents; they did an enormous business, clearing, I hear, eleven hundred dollars. When

HUNTINGTON.

the money gave out, a crowd of the fellows would line up before the grimy stokers' and deck-hands' table, and when they had finished make a dive for what was left.

We were six or seven days on the voyage, and off Santiago a day or two, landing after a heavy bombardment of the coast by several of our men-of-war. Innutritious food combined with seasickness and lack of exercise had had its effect upon the men. Many were sick, most were feeling wretched, and all were weak. Few men in my troop were fitted for active work. We slept that night at Baiquiri on our rolls. Next day a forced march of twelve miles brought us to a village on the coast, the name of which nobody seems to know. The cause of this sudden move was soon known. There were extensive rumors that a body of Spaniards were a few miles over the hill, waiting to welcome us. The men knew what was coming. The rainy night kept a good many from sleeping; as for myself, it

was a week from "taps" to reveille! I calculated the percentage of lost of every battle of the Civil War the statistics of which I knew. All the men in the regiment were eager to get into a fight, and talked about it day and night. The desire of our hearts was to be fulfilled, and I do not think any of us hesitated. By ten o'clock we were seven or eight miles over the hill beyond the village on the coast. Suddenly the column was stopped; the order was passed down to be silent, closely followed by "Load magazines." The rapid-fire guns were hurried to the head of the column. We proceeded cautiously-scouts having been thrown out. Then came in rapid succession the commands: "L troop deploy as skirmishers," "F troop [my troop] second in the agmen column half left double time, deploy as skirmishers." "G" troop followed. I hardly think the others had time to get up before firing commenced. "F" troop hurriedly took its position on the brow of a hill, the extreme left of the firing line. We had hardly done so before the fight was opened by a rapid-fire gun. Imagine now the hilliest country you ever saw, traversed by several V-shaped roads and covered with luxuriant foliage, incidentally including "Spanish bayonet," open spaces here and there with grass waist high, and you have our battle-field. When the rapid-firing gun was heard, the boys were jubilant. "Poor devils!" "Now won t they be good!" were among the expressions of sympathy for the poor Spaniards-it afterwards turned out it was a Spanish Gatling gun! The packers had stampeded with ours. It was by this machine gun that Capron and Fish were killed, and eighteen others from "L" troop killed and wounded. All along the lines the fire was taken up by both sides. Mauser bullets began to whistle around my ears, but with some difference of effect upon the nerves. Represented as well as I can, those high above my head sounded like zir-ah-ah (long drawn out); those that came nearer, zip.

The Spaniards were somewhere in front of us-that we could tell by the report of the rifles; but they were totally hidden by the thick underbrush and high grass. Our line advanced slowly, sometimes on our knees, then in a crouch.ng position. I was considerably excited, and had the same sensation that I have in hunting rabbits and birds, holding my gun in a similar position, impatiently awaiting order to "fire at will,"

and vainly looking around for something to shoot at.

After the fight was over, few men had the temerity to say that they got used to or did not fear the bullets. Sheridan said that when he was under fire his natural impulse was to run, which was prevented only by the exercise of his will.

Towards the end of the fight I think I worked more calmly and aimed more carefully, directing my fire towards a house which was supposed to be sheltering some of the enemy, and towards a field apparently unoccupied, but which we thought contained Spaniards hidden in the high grass. At one stage of the fight we were diligently firing directly in front of us, when an officer came running toward us shouting, "For God's sake stop! you are killing your own men! You are supporting the firing line." We were horror-struck, and a groan went up from the men. Acting Lieutenant Haskell (" F" troop) ordered the bugler to sound" Cease firing." For half an hour we advanced slowly, holding our fire. A Spanish officer afterwards captured expressed surprise at our method of fighting, moving against them without returning their fire. The officer had made an error; we were the firing line. At one part of the fight the right flank seemed to have been pressed too hard, and we were ordered to move at double time in that direction.

A man for whom I had conceived quite a friendship during our voyage over was running bareheaded in front of me. Killed and wounded men were scattered around, and I was greatly affected by the sight of them; but the full significance of the phrase "the art of war" burst upon me only when I saw my friend's head shot to pieces by an explosive bullet. He fell with a thud, and I ran past his body. In a short time the enemy retreated to Santiago. Our loss was twelve killed and about forty wounded; the enemy's loss about double that number.

The wounded were sent to a hospital on the coast, and the dead were collected for burial. This was a most impressive scene, and brought tears to the eyes of many. The men, wrapped in their blankets, were laid side by side in one grave. The chaplain read the Episcopal burial service, and the regiment grouped around the grave and sang “Nearer, my God, to Thee." "Taps were sounded by the bugler, the grave was filled, and we slowly went back to our tents.