trying to lean against the wall without coming in contact with the stirrups and girths of some saddles suspended above. We furnished two candles in beer-bottles to illuminate the assembly, placing the lights on the floor in the midst; the remaining space being taken up by mine host. and his wife, their six children, her two brothers, one sister, a brother-in-law, and a few neighbours and children. Our men all stood outside at the door. The "violão" (guitar) was then tuned up, and the three sisters sang in harmony.

One thing struck me, that whereas in conversation the natives are so emphatic with gestures that one can almost understand everything they wish to convey to your mind. from the acting alone, the singing was without movement or spirit, and nasal; the guitar was wiry, but the performers kept good time, and the entertainment was pleasant. Of course, the songs all referred to the tender passion, and some were rather amusing.

Between whiles I talked to the old man, who is the most intelligent person among the lower orders that I have come across, and, having been a schoolmaster, is well read on many matters. We spoke of slavery; he is in favour of the gradual emancipation scheme. An uncle of his had by will released his thirty-four slaves at his death. He told me that occasionally, at sixteen or eighteen years' interval, there is snow at Casa Grande a finger's thickness; but, of course, it melts in the daytime. He talked of England and the "Lady Victoria" with great respect; he esteems the Queen very highly. He wished to know all about our English fazendeiros, or farmers, as he heard they were very rich. I told him something about our farmers and landowners and their increasing difficulties, especially owing to the spread of democratic principles, and explained

something of the riches of manufacturers, ironmasters, coalowners, etc.

Some years ago the old man's wife had become quite. blind from cataract. He took her down to Rio, where she was operated upon, and can now see tolerably, but only by wearing a huge pair of spectacles with circular highly convexed glasses, which, with her old wizened face, make her look just like an ancient owl. All the women get old and ugly here comparatively early; and, with their exceedingly wrinkled and wizened faces bandaged up with handkerchiefs, they look fac-similes of the women in the pictures of the old masters of the German schools.

I spoke of the blind in England, how they not only have books which they can read with their fingers, but also a style of writing by pricking, so that one blind man can write to another, who can read it himself. He replied, "What a wonderful country England must be! Here the blind have nothing to do, and are shut out from everything."

November 26.—The singing in harmony of the blacks at their work of weeding the young maize plantations on the other side of the valley was extremely pretty, softened by distance. These blacks work about eleven hours a day, and get a milreis; they are mostly freed slaves. Aleixo has eleven working in his plantations, four of whom belonged to an old priest who freed them on his death, and left twenty-five alqueires of land for them to settle on, build huts, and cultivate for their own use. They are fine, stalwart, pure-blooded negroes.

In the evening we had a final serenade from the same "artistes" as on the 24th, with the addition of some dancing. Roberts did the proper thing, and picked out the prettiest girls he could select, while I looked on. There

was certainly not much room for it; but the movements of the graceful swaying and bending of the body were pleasant to watch, and the little bare feet glided prettily over the uneven mud floor to the tunes from a wiry guitar, manipulated by a man who seemed never wearied, but played on continuously, with his head bent low over the instrument, as if anxious to enjoy to the full his own music,

CHAPTER VII.

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUÃO.

Camp near Olhos d'Agua.

November 28, 1883.-It seems strange to be writing at the end of November, with the thermometer at 75° in the open, two hours and a half after sunset; but such is the southern hemisphere in the tropics.

Our new camp is built on a promontory of campo (prairie), far above the swamps of the broad valley which surrounds us on three sides. There is nothing loftier than short grass on this summit, and as we look for miles east and west we shall have the benefit of all the air there is. The scenery is extremely pretty.

I had two visits from Doctor Rebouças at Casa Grande, on the 24th and 26th. He came to see the progress of the plans and trial section, with which he was satisfied, and was very friendly.

Yesterday afternoon my horse fell with me for the first time, but it was not his fault. I was trying to cross a piece of wet ground, when the horse went in nearly up to his haunches, and then rolled over, with my left leg under him. Fortunately the ground was very soft, so I pulled my leg out, and got him up and on to more solid ground. We were neither of us any the worse, and were off again,

finding a more passable route, before any of the men could come to the rescue.

I am most thankful to say that the carrapato torment has now practically ceased. Since the rains really began, about three weeks ago, I have only come across stray ones occasionally; but these are of a larger species, which, however, one can generally feel on their first attack, and pick off before they have buried in their heads; besides which, I now wear my nails cut pointed, in the native fashion, so as to dig them out better.

November 30.-We have felt our exposed position at nights, and the wind shakes every rope in the tent. On the night of our arrival we were awakened at 11.30 by the most terrific thunderstorm that Roberts says he ever witnessed, and he has been long in India and tropical America. The wind shook the tent about so, that we jumped out of bed, and each rushed to one of the tentpoles to prevent its bending or breaking. Some of the ropes gave way, and the outer covering flapped about. The noise of the rain on the tent top and sides, placed as it was on a bare down, was a continual roar; but the climax was the lightning, which every instant pierced the pitchy darkness, revealing everything as clear as day, followed by the most awful thunder, as if a thousand 81-ton guns were exploded and then rolled upon each other like marbles.*

Continuous rain since yesterday has kept us indoors for two days, so we have been able to attend to many matters and plot some of our work, as well as very limited space will allow.

* It might interest members of the Psychical Research Society to know that on this same night my mother and Roberts's wife dreamt (?) we were in danger, as we heard from the next letters which we respectively received from different parts of London. The two ladies were unacquainted.