considered the De Lesseps of Brazil. They were all dressed in white trousers, broadcloth frock-coats, and black silk hats. We anchored at 10.30, and came on shore at twelve, I cannot attempt as yet to describe the town, that must be deferred till I have time to go about a little; but I am much struck by the execrable manner in which the streets are paved all over the heart of the city. To-day has been a very busy day. After coffee at the hotel, I went out for a stroll before breakfast, and walked to one of the squares, the Largo da Constituiçao, meeting crowds of niggers and mulattos-men, women, and children of every shade, from the deepest black to the palest white, carrying sugar-cane, bananas, oranges, and many other fruits and vegetables, also prawns, and fish of various kinds. In the centre of the square is a bronze equestrian statue of Dom Pedro I., the base of the pedestal being surrounded by four bronze groups, representing the typical Indians of the four principal rivers in Brazil-the Amazons, São Francisco, Paraná, and Madeira; beside these groups are eight great gas-lamps. The square is, of course, full of tropical trees, palms, crotons, etc.; and there are many benches in the shade, but it is nothing like the Passeio Publico, which is really a most charming garden, though small, in the heart of the town. After nine o'clock breakfast, we all went together to the Engineers' Club, the New London and Brazilian Bank, and paid several duty calls, passing compliments, shaking hands ad infinitum, bowing, and smoking dozens of cigarettes; and then to the Alfandega, or Custom House, where we were detained an enormous time, having in all some hundred and fifty packages, fifty of which were instruments, drawing tables and boards, paper and other necessaries. Most of these boxes were opened and examined, soldere up tin cases included; so that when they came to the personal baggage, they were about sick of the job, and none of my things were searched, as I said they only contained roupas (clothes) and other necessaries. At least, all the officers were very civil; and at the end of some hours, when all was concluded, and a good sum paid as duty, after mutual compliments, handshaking, doffing of hats, and cigarettes, we at length departed. There is an abundant and ubiquitous system of tramways. The cars are drawn by one or two mules, but the roads for them in the city are a disgrace; and in the narrow streets foot passengers have to squeeze against the houses or go into a shop to avoid being knocked down by the cars, which are mostly open, the seats being in rows facing the mules. June 29.-Went to the athletic sports to-day, and saw the Emperor. Have to leave to-morrow morning by the five train, so must conclude. In the train en route to Queluz. June 30, 1883.-I must begin by a brief allusion to the athletic sports I went to yesterday afternoon at the English cricket ground, near Botafogo. They were really very good. Many of the principal English residents were there, and I was introduced to several. The two races which interested me most were one for little boys, and another for little girls, under twelve. When I had had enough of the sports, I took a car, with some others, to the Botanical Gardens, some three miles further from the town. The road there is quite pretty, passing the Bay of Botafogo and the lagoon Rodriquez de Freitas; but the most remarkable sight on the route is the view of the precipitous |