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(foot of the hill), whence, to reach Petropolis, it was necessary to drive by diligence up a well-made, broad, zigzag coach-road. The train was composed of one first and one second class carriage, which rapidly became tolerably full. The seats and backs are of closely interlaced bamboo, the backs are reversible, and, being only about two feet six inches apart, do not afford much room. Five persons sit on each seat, and each carriage holds sixty people. Leaving the platform, we proceed over low ground through a flat, sandy, bush-and-thicket covered country of luxuriant shrubs, entangled and entwined by thorns and creepers, the monochromous vegetation being relieved by an occasional bright spike of flowers. At 5 p.m., on reaching the second station, our engine, which had been in front, was changed for one with a central cog-wheel, placed at the rear of the train, and then we began rapidly to ascend by a grade of sometimes one in five or so, and so quickly that I could see the needle of my aneroid falling. We passed through the grandest mountain scenery, huge perpendicular masses of rocks, covered with trees on the top, rising from the dense virgin forest which covered the hilly sides of the valley. After a quarter of an hour's ascent, we had a superb prospect. We could see along the flat scrub to Mauá; at our feet a straight white line, showing the road we had just traversed, surrounded by hillocky woods; then the bay, the Ilha do Governador, the mountains round Rio, the entrance to the bay, and the broad Atlantic beyond, some thirty miles away. At 5.30 we crossed the Grotto Fundo, which, as its name implies, is a gorge of a tremendous depth, spanned by a viaduct constructed in a similar manner to that which I described on the Corcovado railway. Here we are in the most impressive scenery there is on this line, in the midst of a grand amphi

theatre, extending for three-quarters of a circle, surrounded by the virgin forest, which is walled round by the most fantastic lofty mountains of perpendicular rock, while beyond the outlet of this majestic amphitheatre lies clearly mapped out every detail of the picturesque bay. Just beyond the Grotto Fundo is a masterpiece of engineering skill, both from the boldness of the conception and the admirable manner it has been carried out, though the sight almost makes one shudder. The railway is carried in mid air by means of cantilevers, or girders fixed into the face of a vertical rock, so that one can look out of the window and touch the rock while gazing upon the green forest at a dizzy depth below.

By 5.35 we had gained the summit; and, again changing engines, left the cog-wheel track, and proceeded through scattered houses to the station of Petropolis, where we arrived at 5.40, having thus been two hours and ten minutes en route. The barometer was at 27.50 ins., and, as we started at 30 ins., this gave a rise of approximately 2500 feet. The summit of the railway where it joins the cog-wheel line is 100 feet (by aneroid) above Petropolis. The air now felt very cold, and although the thermometer stood at 65° (and it was 60° at 10 p.m.), my feet became. almost as cold as ice. It is curious to feel this effect of cold with the thermometer registering a temperature that in England-and even lately at Rio, in the early morningis comfortable. In England such a temperature is warm ; in Rio it is cool and invigorating. I suppose this chilly sensation is due to the rapid change from the comparative heat of Rio to the rarer air and icy mountain breezes.

Taking the hotel carriage, I drove in five minutes to the Hotel MacDowel, now kept by Mr. Mills, an Englishman, where I enjoyed a good dinner, in company with

a Brazilian lady, her daughter, and an English engineer, Mr. A. Welby, who, as I subsequently learnt, is working on a proposed prolongation of this railway, which is to extend some fifty miles further. Our dinner-table looked desolate, as it was "muita comprida" (very long) and elaborately decorated, but with only a lamp or two at one end for the four guests who at present are staying here. Petropolis is quite empty now, being the depth of winter.

July 23.-A cloudy morning, but warm and pleasant; so I went for a stroll through the village before breakfast, and then round the hotel garden, where camellias, azaleas, arums, roses, and geraniums were mingled with cactuses and other tropical plants and flowers.

Before describing my day's walks, I must say a few words about the town.

Petropolis, or the city of Peter, is so named because it owes its foundation and development to the Emperor Pedro II. It is situate 803 metres (2634 feet) above the sea, and is the summer residence of the Emperor, Empress, and Royal Family, and of the foreign diplomatic circle. It possesses five hotels, besides restaurants, six colleges and schools, three musical clubs, and numerous other noteworthy buildings, besides having a complete system of telegraphs and telephones, and it issues two journals, one bi-weekly O Mercantil, one weekly O Arauto, each of which costs 100 reis, or 2d.

Many merchants and others live up here, journeying to and from Rio de Janeiro every day since the railway, Principe do Grão Pará, has been opened. This mountain railway was begun August 1, 1881, and opened in 1883.

Petropolis is supposed to be one of the healthiest localities in the world, and it is certainly a unique and beautiful spot, with great variety of scenery. There are

RUA DO IMPERADOR, PETROPOLIS.

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