side of the Corcovado from the Largo dos Leoes,* where the rock rises a sheer thousand feet above a mass of dense forest. Decidedly the most interesting feature in these gardens is the triple avenue of lofty palms (Oreodoxa oleracea). The avenues are arranged in the shape of a T, and the view I give is of the centre walk-the stem of the T. The palms have a perfectly smooth straight trunk some eighty feet high, crowned by a mass of leaves, each of which is twelve feet long or more; it is all on so large a scale that it was only by seeing some people at a little distance coming down the avenue that I could really take in its height. We next came upon a number of mango and mangrove trees, then some clumps of graceful bamboos forty feet high; after that, orange trees in fruit, the bread-fruit tree, and thousands of plants with splendid and large leaves. Nearly all the trees are covered with epiphytes, orchids, and luxuriant hanging lichens. I noticed some butterflies, Papilio, Callidryas, Pieris, Ithomia, a few Erycinide, and others I do not know. To-day, having set my alarum for 3 a.m., I got up early; not, however, after my usual good night, which is easily accounted for. First, it being the Feast of SS. Peter and Paul, there were innumerable crackers and fireworks of all kinds sent off in the street, which roused me every few moments till midnight; then some men close by started singing in chorus, and kept it up till 4 a.m.; a mosquito also found me out, and was disagreeable, and I discovered in the morning where he came from. Emptying the remains of the water-jug into the basin, I had the pleasure of seeing, besides a lot of muddy sediment, a dozen lively mosquito larvæ! * Lion Square. I had to wake up the rest of our party, for though we had told the boots to call us, he never did, and we were only just in time; for at 3.30 our two carriages drove up. They were large, comfortable, and showy, each having two mules, and the coachmen wearing top hats, with a broad gold lace band. There was also a huge covered waggon for the luggage, of which we only had thirtyeight packages, the rest having been sent direct up country from the Custom House. Arriving at the station at 4.20, we were allowed half an hour to enjoy our coffee and bread; the coffee is always excellent, and invariably drunk noir, with a large amount of native sugar, which is pale yellow and fine as flour. We left Rio at 5 a.m. punctually, and are now proceeding by the Estrada de Ferro Dom Pedro II.—the principal state railway—to the extreme northern limit of the line, which at present is Carandahy. The engine and carriages are of American make and in American style—the Pullman cars-fitted with every convenience, but being on the bogie principle they oscillate tremendously. I have spent a good deal of the day on the platform at the end of the train-fortunately there is not a guard's van there-looking back at the line, examining the construction, curves, tunnels, bridges, and the general points of engineering interest. The train is going at really a very respectable speed, though it does stop at every station, that is, about every eighteen kilometres. Since daylight I have been able to admire the scenery, which is most varied and beautiful, very hilly, and in some parts very thickly wooded; but I can give you no idea of the luxuriance of the forests and their intense green. Sometimes we wind along the edge of steep slopes, while below are undulating hills rising out of the snowy mists of early morning, with plantations of sugar-cane, bananas, coffee, orange trees covered with golden fruit, and innumerable clumps of the lovely bamboo. Then we plunge again into thick masses of virgin forest. The chief objection to the journey is the dust which rises in clouds, penetrates everywhere, and covers the paper I am writing on. Dr. Rebouças is with us; he and all the Brazilians travel in long white cotton coats down to their ankles, or else white ponchos, to keep off the dust. At seven we stopped and had a cup of coffee; and then at eight, arriving at Barra, we had a good substantial breakfast, mostly obnoxious-looking messes, which, however, tasted very good, and were washed down by some good Portuguese red wine, called vinho virgem. Most of the villages or small towns that we have passed appear well-built, neat, and pretty. The highest point on the line was in a tunnel, when the aneroid showed about one thousand metres above sea level; this was in the Mantiqueira range, one of the most important watersheds of Brazil. The railway in many places is a triumph of engineering skill; but it is evident that it is a government line, and has been built regardless of expense. We reached Carandahy,* Minas Geraes, at 5.30, having been twelve and a half hours travelling 420 kilometres, or an average of just 20 miles per hour. We then walked up the hill to the hotel, which is quite close, and were about ready for the dinner, which did not delay to appear, after having had nothing except a few cups of coffee since 8 a.m. The air felt very cold, and yet the thermometer was 50°. The accommodation, of course, was not very extensive, and an arrival of a dozen travellers more than the average was * Carandahy is a Tupy (Indian) name, derived from Cara-andahy, the hawk's hook or curve, the name of the river (Captain Burton). something very unusual; however, we were allotted three bedrooms for our party. The bedstead frames were iron, with boards to lie on, concealed by half an inch of Indian corn straw, and naught besides save a sheet and a thin coverlet. I slept Brazilian fashion, in trousers, and piled on all the coats and rugs that I had to keep myself warm ; the result was I slept like a top, but when I woke was greeted by sundry groans from my neighbours, who were a mass of bruises, and had not slept a wink, owing to the hard boards. July 1.-At nine, Dr. Rebouças, his friend Senhor Oliveira, our chief, and I left for Queluz, which is about forty-eight kilometres off (thirty miles). Placing our little luggage on a trolly, we four, with the district engineer, got on, and were pushed along for two or three kilometres by four men, till we fell in with the contractor's engine. We then removed our luggage and got on board it. All round the engine is a narrow platform, with a railing to prevent one being jolted off; and in front, between the buffers, is a seat, which is more comfortable but less agreeable; for when the engine pulls up sharp, as it did once when a herd of cows was on the line, the chances are you will be pitched off on your face. We reached the station of Paraopeba at ten, having been an hour travelling eighteen kilometres. After a short conference with some engineers there (having ordered horses to meet us at the end of the rails, and engaged a cart to take the luggage to Queluz), we left at 11.30. The last six or seven kilometres of rails were very rough, and we crawled along and jumped about horribly. At length by midday, reaching the end of the rails, we got on horseback, riding for the most part along the line, which is almost ready for laying the rails, even beyond Queluz. On the way we met another district engineer, levelling the |