have, though they may be clothed in rags. The cars are always drawn by mules of a remarkably good and swift breed. Short distance fares are unknown. Ordinary fare

is 200 reis (4d.).

Water Supply.

Besides the very important supply from the Aqueduct of the Rio da Carioca, there exist four large reservoirs : that of Dom Pedro II. (which I visited and described), holding 8,800,000 gallons; that on the Morro da Viuva, 1,386,000 gallons; that of Rio de Oura, 3,300,000 gallons ; and Sta. Theresa, 660,000 gallons; and in addition nine smaller reservoirs. There are nine public fountains scattered about the town, all about one hundred years old, or more. These are well frequented by the townsfolk, as also by the carriers who drive about the city with large barrels of water, which they sell for a vintem (d.) a bucket. There are also, in course of construction, many ornamental fountains, with large granite basins and statues; but when I left they were not as yet in use.

Passeio Publico.

This garden I was never tired of visiting. It was opened in 1783, and contains many rare indigenous and exotic trees and plants. For over a hundred years it has been the most agreeable lounge in Rio, and, in my opinion, it surpasses the Jardim Botanico, though the latter is of far greater extent, while it has the advantage of being only a few minutes' walk from the Rua do Ouvidor, in the centre of the city. The garden is covered by the most luxuriant shrubberies, and a tangled mass of very lofty trees, plants, and creepers; these, meeting overhead, yield a continual shade to the numerous winding walks which intersect the

garden. Many benches scattered beside the walks afford charming resting-places, where one can sit and read, protected from the sun, even on the hottest days. There are also extensive well-kept lawns of the usual knot-grass (Spergula sp.), from which spring various solitary palms of many species. A family of pacas (a fawn-coloured rodent, the size of a small pig) and an emu (resembling a cassowary) live in the garden, the latter being very tame, and not objecting to being stroked; while on various ponds live a number of ducks and geese; and darting among the trees, or lazily floating along the walks, appear many handsome butterflies. At the further end of the garden, bordering the bay, is a fine broad marble-paved terrace, whence is a charming view, and whereon is a drinking fountain, formed by the figure of a boy, who pours water into a stone barrel; beneath the figure is a motto, "Sou util inda brincando" ("I am useful although playing "). This delightful garden is open daily from 6 a.m. At night the walks are lighted with gas. There is also a restaurant; and a German band plays every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Jardim do Campo da Acclamação.

This is another of the squares worthy of a brief notice. It is much larger than the Passeio Publico, but was only begun in 1873, and opened in 1880, before which time it was a public washing-ground. It is an exceedingly pretty place, with various ponds, islands, and green lawns, and reminded me much of Battersea Park, though, being so new, of course, the vegetation has not yet grown to a great height. Besides its lakes, covered with hundreds of waterfowl, there is in one corner a very picturesque imitation of limestone caves, with waterfall, stalagmites, stalactites, and dripping roof.

The Carnival.

This is well kept up, and lasts for three days, beginning on Quinquagesima Sunday. There are masked balls at all the theatres; every one appears to have taken leave of their senses, and I fear the proceedings are bacchanalian and heathenish. There are processions organized by three carnival clubs-the Fenians, the Democrats, and the Lieutenants of the Devil (Tenentes do diabo). Every kind of horse-play is exercised. Numerous mulattos, called Capoeiros, dance about and run “amok" with open razors strapped to their hands, with which they rip people up in a playful manner. The police are always on the look-out for these gentlemen, and rush out on them with drawn swords! The carnival taking place in the summer, there is often much rain. I saw one of the comic papers this year, which was sent up to Brumado-the Revista Illustrada, a paper which, alas! often turns religion into ridicule. In it were a series of well-drawn sketches of the procession. Amongst them was one depicting it struggling through a surging sea; beneath was the remark that this display resembled the passage of Pharaoh's host into the Red Sea. The final sketch was a boy kneeling, with a serio-comic expression, grasping a huge codfish, and underneath was written "Lent has begun. We must now welcome the catholic and apostolic baccalháo (salt cod)!" In Brumado, where I was at that time, there was no carnival, and the priest would inevitably have stopped any proceedings which the least bordered on profanity.

Lotteries.

I must not conclude these notes without a word about the public lotteries, which form a very important part of the amusement of the people. They are tolerably frequent.

In June, 1884, for instance, there were "drawings" on the following days: 4, 7, 9, II, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21, 25, 28, 30; i.e. about three a week. The highest prize is from 20 to 25 contos (ie., at 24d. to the milreis, £2000 to £2500). There are also varying numbers of prizes of ten, five, four, two, and one conto, of 800, 500, 200, 100, 40 milreis, and from 1800 to 1900 of 20 milreis. The object is the benefit of the province or the town, some hospital or conventual institution, or the fund for emancipation of slaves. I believe a third of the proceeds goes to the cause. The price of a ticket is 20 milreis; but portions are sold, down to one-twentieth, which costs a milreis. The drawing appears to be done with fairness. I heard of many successful individuals, among them an office-boy, who, buying a milreis ticket, drew a prize of £50; and an English captain, who had only that day arrived in Rio, drew a prize of £200! The tickets are obtainable at all the kiosks, where coffee and newspapers are sold, also in many shops, while many bureaux exist solely by their sale; and one cannot walk a hundred yards without seeing little placards floating in the breeze, "Hoje anda a roda"-"To-day the wheel goes," or to-morrow, or whatever day it may be. There are also notices stating, "In this office No. — was sold, which drew such a prize." The little newspaper-boys, who cry the evening paper Gazeta da Tarde, never weary of calling out "Results of the Lottery." As this happens about three times a week, one soon gets tired of it.

The system may be objected to on account of the gambling it induces; but the Government upholds it, as it brings much money into their impoverished treasury.

CHAPTER XI.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

July 28, 1884.-The Valparaiso steamed off at 5.50 p.m., and our friends accompanied us in the steam launch until it was too dark to see; then, with a parting, "Deus guarde as Vses. Srias," we bade adieu to Rio.

July 30.-I saw a splendid and cloudless sunrise. First appeared a dull red spot on the eastern horizon, which, as swiftly as the wire in the incandescent electric light, became a dazzling white point; and then the sun rose so quickly that in about two minutes from his first appearance the whole fiery globe was above the horizon. At 8 a.m. we sighted on our port bow the French steamer La France, which sailed from Rio three or four hours before us; we passed her about noon, and lost sight of her astern by 4 p.m. This was the chief amusement to-day, though we caught sight of two whales, and by sunset saw several small chains of hills and mountain peaks.

July 31.-Went on deck at six; very dull morning. A low line of coast close on the starboard side showed we were approaching Bahia, and by 8.15 we had anchored in the bay. The entrance to this bay is very much wider than that of Rio de Janeiro, and the coast is surrounded by low hills, many of them forest clad. We were, unfortunately,

R