empressement as if we were his oldest friends, and did not appear the least disturbed at the size of our caravan. He, of course, talked long and eloquently about his route for the railway, which we promised to go over the next day. The principal produce of his farm besides maize is cotton, of which he sends four hundred arobas (13,0941⁄2 lbs.) yearly to São João del Rey, whence it goes to all parts, as the southern portions of the province do not produce much. He also grows grapes, and makes wine, which he sells at eight milreis (about 13s. 4d. to 14s. 8d.) per "barril" of twenty-one litres, including the cask.

By the way, speaking of "going to all parts," I asked a man the other day where a certain road led to; he answered, "Well, first to Barbacena, then to the whole world."

August 10.-We left the fazenda at about ten, having first insisted on the colonel receiving payment for the maize our beasts had eaten, and after much pressing he took ten milreis. In about two hours we reached the old camping-ground of the second section, and found the tents removed, so we had to ride or walk through the "picadas" (lines cut through the woods) till we came across the party at three p.m. After a long talk we returned a distance of two leagues to the "city" of Rio de Peixe, reaching at length the same path from which I saw the fine sunset on my first journey.

Arrived at the village, we put up at a small house owned by a gigantic nigger, where the accommodation was nothing remarkable, but the food was excellent; and after dinner we went up town to pay visits and gather opinions on the colonel's proposed route; the general feeling seemed rather opposed to it.

August 11.-Having obtained a guide, we set off at ten

to explore the newly proposed Peixe Valley route. Our guide was an elderly grey-haired man, but very strong and sturdy; he was on foot, and shoeless, but he set out at a rapid though steady pace, which he kept up the whole distance to Capella Nova. He often goes about as a courier, carrying letters and money, and is always on foot and alone.

Just after leaving Rio de Peixe, we met a party of thirteen men, women, and children on horseback, going to a wedding; and I must confess the bride did not look over joyful. We rested on the way and had some delicious red lemons, while we watched some niggers uprooting yams and mandioca. In one of the forests we saw a "sagui" or marmoset, a lovely little brown creature. We arrived at Capella Nova at 3.45, after a very pleasant ride; but, as we expected, did not find the colonel's route a good track for the railway. It would require several tunnels, besides ascending and descending grades of a far greater percentage than could possibly be employed, so there was no need to go over it with an instrument.

Arrived at Capella Nova, as there was no house large enough to receive us all, we divided into two parties. My division did not alight at the Italian's where I stayed the last time, but at another wine-shop. I had my dinner in public on the shop counter, and then had to make peace with my former host by telling him I wished to divide my custom.

We were given an old cabin to sleep in. I went to see it, and refused to stay there; it was too frightfully dirty. I then went and took possession of a new unfurnished house-the chief lent me a cork mattress-and, with my saddle-bags for a pillow, and my old rug and poncho for coverings, passed a most beautiful night, going to bed at 8.30.

The next morning we were up early, but did not get away till ten. I saw a pig running along the street with a huge triangular piece of skin, some three inches long, hanging down, torn off his back. I suppose he had been caught by some of the fearfully strong thorns which abound. Poor brute! At 2 p.m., having crossed the divide and examined the bare downs for the best point for the crossing of the line, passing through a dense forest we reached a fazenda, outside which we sat by the side of a stream for lunch. We tried to go inside the fazenda, but the men were all out and we got into the midst of some thousands of bees which were swarming on the verandah, so we thought it better to beat a retreat. I was tantalized by seeing some huge Papilios (P. Thoas), Erycinidæ, Pieridæ, Callidryas, and other lovely butterflies settling on the damp earth beside the stream; but, not having my net at hand, had to be content with watching them. We then rode along by a different route to the one I had travelled by before, and, leaving the Pedra Branca far to the right, arrived at Brumado at 5.45, sleeping, as usual, at the house of Senhor João Baptista, who received us with his unfailing genial and importunate kindness.

The next day, August 13, we rode to Paraopeba, and put up in our rooms at the hotel or inn near the station.

Thus ended my fortnight's trip up country, which was most enjoyable in every way, both from the pleasure of seeing the country and from the universal kindness of all those I came across, and it will be long ere I shall forget it.

CHAPTER V.

I START ON CAMP LIFE.

In camp, on the Serra do Cortume, near Casa Grande. August 18, 1883.—At length I am in camp. On the 15th the bullock-cart arrived to take the impedimenta of the first section to some place in this neighbourhood, which I had to fix upon, and I was very busy distributing all our luggage, instruments, etc., into three lots-one to remain in our rooms at Paraopeba, the second to go to camp, the third to be conveyed by the bullock-cart to Brumado. The cart was sent on ahead the same day, and I left early the next morning, riding alone, as the men I had engaged all seemed either unable or unwilling to depart till the next day. I saw en route one ciriema (Cariama cristata) and one humming-bird, and nothing else remarkable.

After about three hours' ride, I was joined by my future cook, Antonio by name, when I was approaching Casa Grande. This village is a very straggling affair, consisting of a few small squalid houses, huts, and cabins scattered at intervals for about a couple of miles at the side of the road; there is no church or chapel, and only one small general shop. This apology for a village ends opposite my camp, just before the ascent to the divide.

Having given instructions for the ox-cart to stop near

this place, we found it on our arrival, and, choosing a spot, we began to pitch camp, unloading the baggage with the help of two of the villagers and some boys. In an hour we had fixed up the two tents. Ours is ten feet square; the luggage tent, which the men will also use, is circular, twenty feet in diameter.

Our camp is some two hundred yards from the road, on the grassy slope of a hill in a small side valley. There is a good stream of pure water just below us. I sent Antonio for fowls, while I fetched water and built a fire to prepare some dinner; but at 6 p.m. one of the men who had assisted us in pitching camp came to invite us to dine at his hut. We accepted, and were joined by my former camarade Fortunato, who had just arrived, being now employed as courier to the staff.

The benevolent villager, yclept Aleixo Tavares de Carvalho, gave us an excellent dinner of fowls, etc., laid out on a vacant bedstead, his wife and four small children serving us. He refused payment, saying it is his duty to entertain strangers. I was sorry, as he appears poor; but he is to supply us with fowls and other things. After dinner

we returned to camp, and an elder son, another Antonio, who had been keeping guard, went home, only, however, to return before long with his father to have a long talk; but I left them principally to the camarades. Rolling myself up in my poncho and rug, I laid down on a couple of rush mats, with my revolver under the satchel that formed my pillow, and was asleep in a minute.

The fire was lit early next morning, and I made some coffee (from condensed extract) and soup (from a tablet of riz au gras julienne and Brand's essence) for the benefit of the courier, who had to go off early, as well as for ourselves; then the man prepared breakfast, which consisted