CONTENTS.

CHAPTER 1.

OUTWARD BOUND.

Off-Land's End-Sounding-The Gironde-Bordeaux--Civil marriage

--Electric light--Bay of Carril-Vigo-Emigrants--Lisbon--Peak

of Teneriffe-St. Paul's Rocks -- Fernando de Neronha-- Abrolhos

PAGE

I

CHAPTER 11.

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ,

Bay of Rio de Janeiro-The town-Jardim Botanico-Railway journey to

Carandahy--Scenery--Fellow-travellers-Hotel-Ride to Queluz-

Engineers--Ox-carts-Paraopeba

...

19

CHAPTER III.

PRELIMINARY EXPLORATIONS.

Exploring the first section-Village of Serra-Brumado-Road to
Suassuhy-Canyons—Fazenda da Boa Vista—Preparations for work
-Back to Rio-Hill of Sta. Theresa-Return to Minas Geraes

CHAPTER IV.

RIDE UP COUNTRY,

A friend in need-A curious letter-Postal delinquencies-Delays-John
Baptist--Orioles-Pedra Branca-Such a funny cat-An old fazenda
-An awkward position-Fazenda do Campo Novo-Capella Nova-

City of Rio de Peixe-Camp-Bad bridges--A roadside farm-

Fazenda da Mata-Patriarchal customs-Longevity-A welcome hut

-Cajurú-Politics-A pleasant Sunday-Goitres-Fazenda Fruc-

tuoso-São Gonçalo da Para-A ride round-Torture of an arma-

dillo-The priest-Camp-Poisoned fish-The colonel--Valley of

Rio de Peixe

35

Lof

CHAPTER V.

I COMMENCE CAMP LIFE.

Pitching camp-A friend in need-Exploring on the divide-Ride to

São Amaro-Small-pox - Cutting through the forest - Church

service-Difficulty of transport-Arrival of Vicente-Invasion by

ants - Religious customs-Procession - Food-Native cookery-

Birds of prey-Invasion by a wolf and an onça

...

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75

CHAPTER VI.

SPRING-TIME AND BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

Bees-Virgin forest-Variety of food—I eat ants-A fine sunset-Vicente

leaves-Mr. Roberts arrives-Picnics-Fazenda do Cortume-Botany

-Visitors-Heavy rain-Traffic begins on high roads-Death and

funeral of the Major do Cortume-Requiem Mass-Native cookery

-The dinner-hour - Spring-time-Voracious ants-Fine nights—

Grandiloquent names-Casa Grande-Life in a native house

Musical evenings

89

CHAPTER VII.

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUÃO.

My horse falls with me- -A terrific storm-My maggot-A swamp-

Working in the rain-Steamy damp and its effects-A talk with

neighbours-Shifting camp under difficulties-Visitors-Christmas----

Fruit and vegetables-Feast of the three kings-Rain-bound-A

fearful day's work—Cultivation-Population and immigration-A

sour old priest-An interesting family--Caught by a storm-Last

day's work-Paying off my men

...

118

CHAPTER VIII.

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

Kind reception-Settling down-Improved health-An accomplished
musician-Matrimony-John Baptist and his family-Illness amongst
the staff-My slave-Church service--The post-office-Native in-
dolence-A visit from Brazilian engineers-Food again-Mr. Roberts
leaves-Description of Brumado-Railway time-table-Butterflies—
Hard work-A lunar rainbow-Lent services-Foreign wanderers—
Guavas and other fruit-A child's funeral-Bronchitis-Rejoicings
on passing of plans for first section-Services and processions during
Holy Week - My guests - Spiritual
My guests Spiritual relationship - An interesting

PAGE

conversation on religion-Easter Day-Handsome butterflies-

Padre Pinto-Scarcity of stars in southern hemisphere-The month

of May-A short but agreeable outing-Death of the Duke of Albany

-Manufacture of butter-The harvest-Tired of this village-The

intense cold-Woollen clothing-Bidding farewell-At Queluz—

Journey down to Rio

140

CHAPTER IX.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

Carson's Hotel -The hospital - Nichteroy - Botafogo - Fishermen--

Pedlars-Table of sunrise and sunset-Resignation of Lafayette

Ministry-Confiscation of convent property-Public assassination—

Dantas forms a cabinet-News of Pitcairn Islands-A railway under

the bay-Fruit-A bull-fight-St. Peter's Day-View from the

Morro do Castello-The Bay of Botafogo-Bribery and corruption

-Yellow fever

182

CHAPTER X.

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

Ascent of the Corcovado-Mountain railway in construction-Farewell
dinner-S. Luiz theatre-Visit to SS. Cotopaxi-Anniversary of
taking the Bastile-Our office-Americans-Trip to Petropolis-
Splendid scenery-The village-A beautiful walk-Cotton-mill—
Waterfall-Trip to Tijuca-Whyte's Hotel-Waterworks and reser-
voirs-Second ascent of Corcovado-The aqueduct-Last look
round-Farewell

...

ADDITIONAL NOTES ON RIO DE JANEIRO.

...

Foundation of the city three hundred years ago-Struggle between the

French and Portuguese-Tramways-Water supply-Passeio Pub-

lico-Campo de Acclamação-The carnival-Lotteries

204

228

CHAPTER XI.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Bahia-Upper and lower town-The market-A city of negroes-Per-

nambuco-Coral reef-Catamarans-Perilous landing-A market on

board-Rainy season-St. Vincent, Cape Verds-Diving boys—-Off

Teneriffe-Quarantine at Lisbon—At Pauillac-Visit to vineyards—

Home once more

APPENDIX I.

NOTES ON THE PROVINCE OF MINAS GERAES.

Early colonization-Area-Mountain ranges-Rivers-Industries-Mines

-Representation-Curious names of places--Ecclesiastical division

-Population-Railways

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259

NOTE ON FERNANDO DE NERONHA.

Position and geological formation--- Description of a visit to the island in

1745—Harbours-Barrenness-Inhabitants-Food-Fish-Stringent

regulations-Visit of the Challenger

RELIGION.

272

Appeal for charitable views-The Eucharist-Certain points of the

Roman faith considered-Cult of the saints in Brazil-Reading the

Bible-The atonement of Christ-Unity of Christendom-Doctrine

-Charity.

...

275

SLAVERY.

Movement for abolition-Law of September 28, 1871—Gradual emanci-

pation-Extracts from local newspapers (translated)—Emancipation

Fund Instances of liberation by will Remarks on liberation

-Socialism-Assassinations-Freed slaves in Rio-Teaching and

practices of abolitionists-Abolition of slavery in certain provinces—

Difficulties considered — Legislation of the Dantas Cabinet-Im-

portant bill introduced, July 15, 1884-Local opinion-Obstruction

-Fall of Dantas-Appeal to the country - English opinions-Return

of Dantas to power, March, 1885-Second overthrow, May, 1885

Saraiva accepts office Introduces a bill of great promise

Abstract of the measure-Foreign criticisms-Resignation of Saraiva

Ministry, August 16-Conservative Cabinet formed by Baron de

Cotegipe-Emancipation bill passed, September 24-Receives im-

perial assent, September 28, 1885

281

THE ORIGIN OF SAVAGE COMMUNITIES OR TRIBES BY DEGRADATION.

Man a family of one genus-His origin revealed-Fossil remains show
high development-Degradation-How produced

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

The kilometric system Native measures-Long measure Square

measure-Cubic measure-Wine measure-Avoirdupois-Diamond

weights-Gold weights.

Notes on the Decimal System

...

296

299

... 300

COINAGE AND CURRENCY.

PAGE

Scarcity of silver-Description of silver and copper coinage, white metal

tokens, and notes-Almost exclusive use of bank and Treasury notes

—Calling in older issues—Use up country—Large issue of copper in

1829-Depreciation of the milreis-The currency on the Amazons ... 301

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL.

A theoretical Budget-Classification of the Budgets of the empire from

its foundation, 1823-1883, with deficits and explanations-Expenses

of colonization and public works

Foreign and home debt of

£56,000,000-Extravagance and bad management-Increasing cost

of officials-The administration considered, with suggestions as to

reforms-Future of the empire-Outlook for investors

Table showing realized loans

Postscript-The Budget of 1885-1886

Report of the Finance Minister, 1885

...

...

...

304

312

APPENDIX II.

A SEVERE WINTER IN MINAS GERAES.

The winter of 1870-Mean temperature of the table-lands-Extreme cold

in Minas-No abnormal temperature elsewhere - Destruction of

plantations, fish, and forests-Streams frozen-Deaths from cold—

Explanation of the phenomena

HAIL, STORMS, RAIN, AND MISTS.

316

Falls of hail-Large hailstones-Lightning-Storms diminish in frequency

towards the equator-Mists constant on the great rivers-Variation

of the flora on river-banks from that of campos ..

...

...

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES IN MINAS GERAES.

Minimum and maximum thermometers-Barometrical readings-Remarks

on the weather

SHORT NOTES ON ANIMALS, BIRDS, AND REPTILES.

Monkeys-Marmosets-Bats-Blood-sucking and fruit-eating habits of

vampires-Capybara--Paca-Coati-Ounces-Indian etymology---

Several species-Ocelot-Lobo, or wolf-Wolf-fruit tree-Edentates

—Ant-caters-Armadillos, genera, species, habitats, etc.-Sloths—

341